Rust Primer for Wrought Iron Gates and Railings

Rust never stops on its own, and painting over it only hides the problem for a season. Iron gates and railings in Temecula, CA are common on hillside homes, and the repair order (wire brush before primer, primer before finish, per painting temecula ca prime focus lab) applies to every one of them.
Where the moisture collects

Rust starts at the low points. The bottom rail of a gate, the base plates of railing posts, and the joints where scrolls meet the frame all hold water. Gates near Temecula Creek or beside lawns with spray heads stay damp longer than gates in dry side yards. Walk the whole piece and look at the underside of every horizontal member, because that is where the film fails first.
Removing the loose rust

A wire brush, a scraper and a sanding block take off flaking paint and loose scale. A power drill with a wire wheel speeds up the flat runs, while hand work is needed in the scrolls. The goal is not bright metal everywhere. It is a surface where nothing moves when a fingernail is dragged across it. Heavy pitting gets scraped back as far as it will go and treated with a rust converter or a rust inhibiting primer.
Rust primer on bare metal
Bare steel flash rusts within hours in damp air, so the rust primer goes on the same day. An oil based rust inhibiting primer penetrates pitted metal well. Brush it in rather than spraying it, since the bristles push product into the pits. Spot prime the bare areas first, let it cure, and then prime the whole piece so the topcoat has a uniform base. A light scuff sand between primer and topcoat helps the next layer bite.
Topcoat that survives the sun
A direct to metal enamel in satin or semi gloss sheds water and holds up under valley sun. Flat finishes on iron tend to chalk and trap dirt. Apply thin coats with a brush or a small foam roller, since thick coats sag on round bar and run down the scrolls. Two coats give proper mil thickness along the edges, where the film is always thinnest.
Small repairs and drainage
A bead of caulk along the joint between a base plate and the concrete keeps water from sitting under the flange, and a small drain hole in a hollow post bottom lets trapped moisture out. After that, a yearly walk with a touch up brush keeps the Inland Empire sun and the sprinkler spray from getting a foothold.